I HOPE 2012 IS KIND TO YOU ALL

Maybe this is your time to come walking in Portugal? Seasons greetings to you all - Julie x

I have been in the Algarve for a few weeks now and the whole mood of this country is just one of negativity - you have to feel for the people who are struggling to pay bills and survive. VAT at 23 percent is going to be added to everything including electricity, restaurant bills and rounds of golf, tolls are being introduced on the main A22 along the Algarve and there are no Christmas lights this year as the councils have no money! On the brighter side of life - the sun is shining and spring flowers are starting to appear (far too early) but a whole hill side of 'barbary nuts' lifted the spirits of everyone on the walk this Saturday. Actually this was a really great walk down on the Arao estuary and we had just arrived at the waters edge when 2 local fishermen appeared the driver jumped out of his car and before we knew it had removed his trousers much to our amusement - he was about to change in to a wet suit! Of course I could not resist a photo which I duly showed him and he joined in the laughter and then told us they were going to collect razor clams.

There has been considerable interest in the Madeiran tiger with many people wanting to know more about this magnificent beast - I will update you all in due course!

The Madeira Tiger

I have just returned from a brilliant weeks walking on Madeira where I had one of my lifes ambitions realised - I saw the Madeira Tiger (Panthera tigris ssp madeirensis). Little is known about this almost mythical creature that is believed to habit the high wooded mountain slopes of the island, there have been very few sightings but talk to the locals and they will tell you stories about the prowess of this magnificent beast.
I had been joking with the group about the Madeira tiger and of course no one believed me that the creature existed but a walk last Sunday changed all that! I decided at the last minute to walk a different levada to the one planned due to cloud cover and rain. The walk begins through the forests above the levada, it was wet, not cold and we were all in high spirits when out of no where this beast was spotted - for once in my life I was speechless - but one of the group manged to take a photo. It was one of those moments that was very, very special and I just want to take this opportunity to thank Volker, Malcom, Gwyn, Chantal, Sabina, Tracy, Rachel and Margarete (the 'A' team) who shared this adventure with me.

Its amazing how you can take walks for granted and not appreciate how beautiful they are. I have been guilty of that but this week has made me realise what I have been missing. Last Friday I revisited a short walk near Quarteira, it was one of my first walks here in the Algarve and I walked in quite frequently but then I dont know why it just got 'shelved'. But looking for some new walks I decided to redo it and oh boy I am so glad I did - it is just fantastic and the Quarteira gorge is a positive oasis of beauty so close to the tourist town of the same name.
Then yesterday 'All Saints Day' I went to rewalk and extend one close to the village of Pera which takes you down to the beach. I knew much of it but I wanted to lengthen it and get a start from a local cafe which I successfully managed but that wasnt the half of it. A new path I took led me down to some creeks, off shoots of the Alcantarilha river and there while I walked musing over a work problem was a lone flamingo wading in the water just below me. As I walked he/she followed and I just had to stop and talk to it (yes, this is the first sign of madness but what a madness!)this was just such a magical moment and eventually a really good walk.

Portugal is sweltering and so am I - I have almost finished two weeks walking in the north of Portugal where the temperatures have been unseasonably hot. The first week was not too bad but the second week with a private group has been a challenge with day temperatures reaching the high 30's - it has only the thought of that ice cold beer at the walks end that has kept us all going.
In situations like this there is always the debate which is worse to walk in rain or in the heat - I think we agreed to disagree.
The Algarve is also warm (but not as hot as in the north)and I am told that both walkers and cyclists are enjoying refreshing dips in the sea an unexpected bonus that no one expected.
The downside to all this sun is that the country has many areas under fire alert something that the they can ill afford.

Its almost 3 months since I have updated this blog - I had not meant for it to be this long - but once again I say to myself 'where does the time go?' It is the summer in Portugal and for those living in the Algarve they are just looking forward to the end of August when all the tourists go home - but this year I am told there are much fewer visitors than previous years.
I myself have not been idle these past few months, I have managed a holiday to see family, found some new walks, put together a new group walk for the Douro valley (which I am very excited about) and generally been very, very busy which is great. Portugal as a country to visit, to walk and ride in is beginning to capture peoples imaginations. One of the most common feedbacks that we get is how friendly and helpful the local people are and it is so true..... the majority are so kind and would go out of their way to help you; there is a real genuiness about them, no airs or graces just plain no nonsense living - life is tough for the majority of Portuguese these days but rarely do you see them complaining, whingeing or protesting they just get on with their lives. They have captured my heart!

The summer is almost here and in Portugal there has been a notieable rise in temperature. Most people do not seem to realsise that during this time it can be much hotter in the north and central Portugal than the Algarve (that is why many from Porto and Lisbon head south for their holidays). Those that were on the group walk in the north last week can also back me up on this as for two days temperatures rose to 35C! Boy it was hot and not typical for late May, the locals kept telling me these were August temperatures - not a lot of consolation when you are absolutely steaming!
Still there are places where you can walk during the summer without over heating - the Azores and Madeira. Most people think that Madeira being further south must be hotter than the mainland but this is far from the truth - south yes but it is an island and its temperatures are tempered by the Atlantic ocean; during the months of June / July the island is awash with hydrangeas, agapanthus and the flower of Madeira - it is just great for walking. Very few walkers go at this time of year because of the mistaken belief that it will be too hot - trust me it will not!

What a difference a day makes! After 3 weeks of beautiful weather which at times became a little too hot (as those on the Alentejo walk will verify)overnight the sun disappeared to be replaced by cloulds and heavy, heavy rain showers - leaving the country with a very autumnal air. Ironically for those who have come on holiday over this Easter period the weather in most instances is warmer and drier back home in the north of Europe.
Still the rain will revive the flowers which were starting to go beyond their best and everything does now look greener which is no bad thing.
On one of the walks a couple of weeks ago I saw a very large moth on the ground, now really moths are not my thing but this was big (the photo does not do it justice)and I have since identified it as the Giant Peacock moth, Europes largest moth - what a find!

Spring is such an amazing time of year as new growth and life bursts on the scene and this year is no exception. The spring flowers in the Algarve have just been so spectacular and even this week I have stumbled upon fritilleries and serapias when least expected. The group walking in the Cape St Vincent Natural Park have not only had an amazing floral display but have also been treated to fantastic aerobatic displays from storks on the cliff tops while from their hotel balconies they watched dolphins in the sea at Sagres.
Clients walking part of the Algarve Way came face to face with a large stag - hunters had told me that there were deer in remote parts of the Algarve but I never really believed them until now!
Those that say the Algarve is overdeveloped must have never stepped outside their tourist development - their loss!

I have just returned from the north of Portugal and must thank my good friend Isabelle at Casa Arrabalde for her hospitality. It is just amazing what you can accomplish in just four full days when you put your mind to it, although very good weather helped.
I re - walked 5 of the walks just to check for any changes, visited hotels and manor houses made new contacts and even had time to visit the 'gastronomic sausage fair' at Ponte de Barca! Those that know me well know that this really is not my 'thing' but I did it and even bought a new leather wallet at half the regular shop price.
The north is just a fabulous friendly place, everywhere I went there was just kindness - even in the tiny remote village of Ermida - where the locals insisted on showing us their tiny museum which has some amazing engraved stones dating from 3,000BC. Close to Mezio while stopping to catch breath and look at the amazing scenery a local farmer carrying wood on his head stopped to ask if we were lost - when we replied that we were out for a walk he shook his head in disbelief and went off muttering 'passeio, passeio!'.

I have just spent a great few days in both Sintra and Setubal checking and updating the walking notes and just touching base with the owners & staff in the accommodation we use. Susana and her family in Sintra are just as delightful as ever, her mother (now in her late 70's) still insists on doing her 3 hour shift on reception each morning and does not understand the meaning of the word 'retirement'. I made a quick visit to Cabo da Rocha which features on one of our walks and was amused by a group of women from Japan who all insisted on having their photo taken one by one at the monument (I had to squeeze my photo in) as it was quite obvious they were going to be there for quite some time.
Setubal has changed very little and the walks even less which was good news. The town is being done up at the insistence of the council but it will never be a 'pretty' place however it is a genuine Portuguese working town with a magnificent fishing port where locals still go every morning to buy the days catch and the people are just so friendly.
We are very dependent on the willingness and co-operation of the staff at both locations to make the walks work and I came away knowing that this is going to continue - that is such a relief and I thank them all.

Heavy showers have blighted much of Portugal this week including hail and thunder!In the Algarve much of the land is sodden underfoot and quite muddy and after heavy rains on Saturday I realised that next Wednesdays walk could not take place on the planned route. Why? Well there was a stream to cross which in itself would not be a problem if there were stepping stones but this particular crossing is one which the cows of the local farmers use and they have totally churned up the land. I could see walkers up to their knees in mud!! So with the sun shining I went out yesterday to reroute the walk. I passed the Budens Lake (see photo)- this lake is a winter phenomenum and owes its origins to the ice age. There are several like this on the south west peninsular and they are part of a study which is ongoing by the Botany department of Oxford University, UK - groups of students come out every year to collect both samples and data. The whole scene was just magical and is now included in this weeks walk, this coupled with Acacia trees in full bloom, wild Arum lilies and fantastic views has now become a great walk and better than the original - come along and see for yourselves!

I have recently returned form a visit to my daughter and family in the USA and you know how it is - you return home but you miss those left behind. Yesterday I was feeling a bit sorry for myself so I took myself in hand and decided to go and look for a new walk which I promptly did. The sun was shining, the sea was blue and while I walked along the beach which was virtually empty I thought about all those people who dismiss the Algarve for being too spoilt. Just look at the photos which I have taken - fabulous! At this time of the year the whole countryside is awash with the blossom of the almond trees which lend a softness to the countryside.
I managed to put together an absolutley great walk from Ferragudo which we will offer in March and after the walk a beer and sandwich in the square was just the perfect end to a perfect morning. And as for those blues? Gone! I realised it is just important to appreciate what you have and where you are; I love my life and would not change it for the world.

Its a New Year and that for many means resolutions (usually around getting fit and losing weight)which more often than not are broken by the end of February. I have only one - to drink more water - many refer to me as a 'camel' as I tend to drink very little while walking - but that is all going to change!! I do know from my own body that if I drink more liquid (not alcohol!)then the water retention and puffiness is much less or disappears altogether plus water is good to keep the skin from drying out and less wrinkles - say no more.
I am intending to get much fitter this year as I do not want the problem with my knee ligaments and tendons again so I have taken up Zumba courtesy of a DVD from daughter. Basically it is a combination of salsa and merengue with extra moevements and is perfect as I just love to dance. It is just great fun and the latin beat is totally infectious.
The new year is the busiest time for holiday enquiries and I am spending a lot of time on the computer so a combination of Zumba and walking is a great balance. In the Algarve spring has sprung - with flowers starting to appear and blossom on trees - nature just never stops - it is just so fascinating.