Portugal is sweltering and so am I - I have almost finished two weeks walking in the north of Portugal where the temperatures have been unseasonably hot. The first week was not too bad but the second week with a private group has been a challenge with day temperatures reaching the high 30's - it has only the thought of that ice cold beer at the walks end that has kept us all going.
In situations like this there is always the debate which is worse to walk in rain or in the heat - I think we agreed to disagree.
The Algarve is also warm (but not as hot as in the north)and I am told that both walkers and cyclists are enjoying refreshing dips in the sea an unexpected bonus that no one expected.
The downside to all this sun is that the country has many areas under fire alert something that the they can ill afford.

Its almost 3 months since I have updated this blog - I had not meant for it to be this long - but once again I say to myself 'where does the time go?' It is the summer in Portugal and for those living in the Algarve they are just looking forward to the end of August when all the tourists go home - but this year I am told there are much fewer visitors than previous years.
I myself have not been idle these past few months, I have managed a holiday to see family, found some new walks, put together a new group walk for the Douro valley (which I am very excited about) and generally been very, very busy which is great. Portugal as a country to visit, to walk and ride in is beginning to capture peoples imaginations. One of the most common feedbacks that we get is how friendly and helpful the local people are and it is so true..... the majority are so kind and would go out of their way to help you; there is a real genuiness about them, no airs or graces just plain no nonsense living - life is tough for the majority of Portuguese these days but rarely do you see them complaining, whingeing or protesting they just get on with their lives. They have captured my heart!

The summer is almost here and in Portugal there has been a notieable rise in temperature. Most people do not seem to realsise that during this time it can be much hotter in the north and central Portugal than the Algarve (that is why many from Porto and Lisbon head south for their holidays). Those that were on the group walk in the north last week can also back me up on this as for two days temperatures rose to 35C! Boy it was hot and not typical for late May, the locals kept telling me these were August temperatures - not a lot of consolation when you are absolutely steaming!
Still there are places where you can walk during the summer without over heating - the Azores and Madeira. Most people think that Madeira being further south must be hotter than the mainland but this is far from the truth - south yes but it is an island and its temperatures are tempered by the Atlantic ocean; during the months of June / July the island is awash with hydrangeas, agapanthus and the flower of Madeira - it is just great for walking. Very few walkers go at this time of year because of the mistaken belief that it will be too hot - trust me it will not!

What a difference a day makes! After 3 weeks of beautiful weather which at times became a little too hot (as those on the Alentejo walk will verify)overnight the sun disappeared to be replaced by cloulds and heavy, heavy rain showers - leaving the country with a very autumnal air. Ironically for those who have come on holiday over this Easter period the weather in most instances is warmer and drier back home in the north of Europe.
Still the rain will revive the flowers which were starting to go beyond their best and everything does now look greener which is no bad thing.
On one of the walks a couple of weeks ago I saw a very large moth on the ground, now really moths are not my thing but this was big (the photo does not do it justice)and I have since identified it as the Giant Peacock moth, Europes largest moth - what a find!

Spring is such an amazing time of year as new growth and life bursts on the scene and this year is no exception. The spring flowers in the Algarve have just been so spectacular and even this week I have stumbled upon fritilleries and serapias when least expected. The group walking in the Cape St Vincent Natural Park have not only had an amazing floral display but have also been treated to fantastic aerobatic displays from storks on the cliff tops while from their hotel balconies they watched dolphins in the sea at Sagres.
Clients walking part of the Algarve Way came face to face with a large stag - hunters had told me that there were deer in remote parts of the Algarve but I never really believed them until now!
Those that say the Algarve is overdeveloped must have never stepped outside their tourist development - their loss!

I have just returned from the north of Portugal and must thank my good friend Isabelle at Casa Arrabalde for her hospitality. It is just amazing what you can accomplish in just four full days when you put your mind to it, although very good weather helped.
I re - walked 5 of the walks just to check for any changes, visited hotels and manor houses made new contacts and even had time to visit the 'gastronomic sausage fair' at Ponte de Barca! Those that know me well know that this really is not my 'thing' but I did it and even bought a new leather wallet at half the regular shop price.
The north is just a fabulous friendly place, everywhere I went there was just kindness - even in the tiny remote village of Ermida - where the locals insisted on showing us their tiny museum which has some amazing engraved stones dating from 3,000BC. Close to Mezio while stopping to catch breath and look at the amazing scenery a local farmer carrying wood on his head stopped to ask if we were lost - when we replied that we were out for a walk he shook his head in disbelief and went off muttering 'passeio, passeio!'.

I have just spent a great few days in both Sintra and Setubal checking and updating the walking notes and just touching base with the owners & staff in the accommodation we use. Susana and her family in Sintra are just as delightful as ever, her mother (now in her late 70's) still insists on doing her 3 hour shift on reception each morning and does not understand the meaning of the word 'retirement'. I made a quick visit to Cabo da Rocha which features on one of our walks and was amused by a group of women from Japan who all insisted on having their photo taken one by one at the monument (I had to squeeze my photo in) as it was quite obvious they were going to be there for quite some time.
Setubal has changed very little and the walks even less which was good news. The town is being done up at the insistence of the council but it will never be a 'pretty' place however it is a genuine Portuguese working town with a magnificent fishing port where locals still go every morning to buy the days catch and the people are just so friendly.
We are very dependent on the willingness and co-operation of the staff at both locations to make the walks work and I came away knowing that this is going to continue - that is such a relief and I thank them all.